Floral Robson trench: more bias binding and lining assembly


Folks, I’ve come to the conclusion that sewing a 3-layered trench coat is no joke.  Not that I thought this was going to be a quick and easy project, but still!  As I get deeper and deeper into the sewing process, I realize just how much more there is to go.  Really, a 3-layered coat means sewing 3 separate coats, not to mention all the little details.  Don’t get me wrong, I am thoroughly enjoying every minute of sewing this coat.  It is just a beast.  🙂

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GeoPop Moss mini – finished!

Grainline GeoPop Moss mini - finished

Some sewing projects are all about the fabric.

A few months ago I sat down with my morning coffee and my laptop, opened the Hawthorne Threads newsletter, and saw this colorful geometric print staring me in the face.  I HAD TO HAVE IT.  I immediately clicked on the link, only to find that it had already sold out!  The horror!  I guess I wasn’t surprised though, since it really is a truly awesome print.  It lingered in my brain for a few weeks as I lamented my bad timing, until one day when I stumbled upon a bolt in my local shop, Gather Here.  Yes!!  I scooped up a yard, and this awesome skirt was born.

Project Stats:

Pattern: Grainline Moss mini, size 8.

Fabric: 100% cotton canvas.  The print is GeoPop by Emmie K for Robert Kaufman in the “chevy in sorbet” colorway (currently on backorder).  The lining is Bemberg rayon in cerise, and I used leftover pink Oxford shirting for the pocket bags and waistband facing.

Modifications: Same as last time (removed some waistband gaping at the center back, and added a bit of length to the hem).

Level of crafty satisfaction: LOVE!  🙂

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Denim Moss mini – finished!

Denim Grainline Moss mini - front

Second skirt, same as the first.  🙂  Immediately after I finished my Coral Moss, I started working on a second version in denim.  This was my first time sewing with denim, and it was no big deal at all.  What was I waiting for?  I used a heavy needle (not a jeans needle though) and yellow topstitching thread, and once again the skirt is fully lined in Bemberg rayon.  It’s a simple skirt, but hopefully one that will become a workhorse in my winter wardrobe.

As many of you in the Northern hemisphere have been noting on your blogs, getting decent photos has become nearly impossible these days!  We are nearing the shortest day of the year, and natural light in my apartment seems to fade only moments after it arrives.  These photos are a little blown out, but I tried to capture the details of the skirt as well as I could.  On a positive note, this dry winter air is great for my hair.  🙂  All right, back to the skirt!

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Coral Moss mini – finished!

Coral Grainline Moss mini - front with hands in pockets

My first Moss mini skirt is complete!  I really like the simplicity of this pattern and the streamlined silhouette, not to mention the endless possibilities for customization and embellishment.  As this was my first time sewing this pattern, there were a few hiccups along the way, but overall I’m pleased with the final product.

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Coral Moss mini: in progress

Coral Moss mini in progress - fly zipper with lining

Finally, progress on my first Moss mini skirt!  This project has been in the works for a while, since September actually.  I always find that there’s a decent amount of prep work to be done when trying out a new pattern.  For the Moss, I wound up tracing the entire pattern twice (!) and making two muslins, including unpicking the first muslin to re-use the fabric for the second.  Oh, the joys of fitting and pattern adjustments.  🙂  After going down from a size 8 to a 6 and taking a 5/8″ wedge out of the center back waistline, I was finally ready to cut into my fabric this weekend.

I’m using Robert Kaufman Hampton Twill in “charm,” a warm coral color.  The twill is a light- to medium-weight cotton and seems to be behaving well so far.  I drafted a full lining in hot pink Bemberg rayon, which I had leftover from my navy Beignet.  The lining is actually a total stash-buster!  I used pink Oxford shirting for the waistband facing (leftover from my Flamingo Archer) and coral shot cotton for the pocket bags (leftover from my Spring Archer).  Hooray for using scraps!

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Summer Blazer Part 2: lapels and sleeve cuffs

Summer Blazer progress 2 - compilation

My Summer Blazer is moving right along!  Today I have more in-progress photos for you, including construction of the infamous notched collar and finishing the sleeve cuffs.  I’ve been really enjoying working on this project and love all the detailed work, and I’m excited that this blazer is nearing the finish line!  Pretty soon I’ll have a classy jacket to pair with all my summer skirts and dresses.  : )

To recap, this is Simplicity 2446, a fitted, classic-cut blazer from the Amazing Fit series.  I cropped the length a bit compared to my previous version.  The jacket is constructed in a cotton print and fully lined in Bemberg rayon.

Like a proud mama, I took lots of photos of my baby.  Enjoy!

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Summer Blazer Part 1: cutting and assembly

Summer blazer progress 1 - compilation

After the plethora of Renfrews that have been popping up on this blog lately, I decided to switch gears a bit.  My next project is a bit more meaty, a bit more challenging, and quite a bit more exciting: a fully lined blazer!  YEAH BABY!!  : )  Can you feel the excitement??

Simplicity 2446 pattern art

I decided to revisit Simplicity 2446, a classic-cut, fully lined blazer in Simplicity’s “Amazing Fit” series.  And let me tell you, after an absolute saga of fitting adjustments that I had made for my first version of the blazer, I think the adjusted fit IS quite amazing.  : )  It had better be after all that work, am I right?

I’ve been wearing my blue blazer a lot lately, and I always feel so classy in it.  The only problem is that it’s quite long – perfect for wearing with slim-cut jeans (which is how I always wear it), but too long for wearing with skirts and dresses.  I’d been dreaming of a white summer blazer for the last few months, so I decided to use my perfectly fitting pattern pieces to make a somewhat cropped version in a lighter color.  I chopped off 4.5 inches from the hem, but kept everything else as-is.  Summer Blazer, here I come!

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Sgt. Pepper dress: getting there!

Sgt Pepper dress - progress 2 - front

Remember about 10 years ago when I started this project?  Oh wait, it was only 3 weeks ago?  Man, that seems like forever!  This past month has been super busy with work, and then I went to the west coast for a week, and then I caught a cold on the last day of my trip… all of which makes for slow progress on the sewing front.  Boo!  Thankfully, I’m happy to report that I’m back home, mostly recovered from my cold, and back to my normal sewing routine.  And behold: I’ve actually made some progress on my funky dress!

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Blazer finishing details: buttons and hems

Blazer progress 3 - button

Time to put the finishing touches on this polka dot blazer!  I have a few more in-progress photos for you today, showing off the buttons in their final locations (as you can see above) and how I finished the jacket and lining hems.  Let’s dive in!

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Long weekend = lots of sewing progress!

Turquoise and yellow dress - outside front

Apparently all I needed to really get this dress in gear was a 3-day weekend, because this baby is almost DONE!  Woo hoo!  : )  Between yesterday and tonight after work, I put the skirt pieces together, attached them to the bodice, and put in the invisible zipper.  This just goes to show how much sewing I could get done if I didn’t have to work!  Wouldn’t that be nice?  : )

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