Folks, I’ve come to the conclusion that sewing a 3-layered trench coat is no joke. Not that I thought this was going to be a quick and easy project, but still! As I get deeper and deeper into the sewing process, I realize just how much more there is to go. Really, a 3-layered coat means sewing 3 separate coats, not to mention all the little details. Don’t get me wrong, I am thoroughly enjoying every minute of sewing this coat. It is just a beast. 🙂
More bias binding
This weekend my adventures in bias binding continued, as I added two sleeve tabs (on the right in the photo above) to my pile of finished bits and bobs.
I also completed the storm flaps, which consist of all 3 layers: fashion fabric, interlining, and lining. I mitered the corner at the center of the back flap, and I carefully wrapped the bias binding around the curves on the front flaps.
The curves took quite a few pins and some serious concentration, but I’m happy to report that they came out pretty smoothly.
Since the flaps consist of 3 layers, I actually draped them over my shoulders and smoothed out the layers before adding the binding to the bottom edges. I wanted to make sure everything would lay nicely on my 3-dimensional body.
You can see in the photo above that the top layer actually crept up a bit, so I’m glad I took the extra few minutes to test that out. Luckily the flannel interlining is pretty “sticky,” which helped to keep the upper layer in its new position.
Next up was the collar. More sharp curves to bind meant using up all my pins, yet again. I am not afraid to use a million pins, people! When I put a pin in fabric, I trust it. My pins have never let me down. 🙂
Interestingly, the Robson collar has quite a sizeable built-in stand, which I only realized as I was assembling it. In the side view below, you can see how much the top collar bubbles up above the under collar. However, when you wrap it around your neck, it all makes sense. This is so cool! I’m still amazed by 3D fabric manipulation and have so much more to learn.
When I wrap the collar around the storm flaps, you can see the stand forming in the back:
Anyway, I’m pretty pleased with how the binding has been coming out so far. I can really start to envision the finished coat. 🙂
Assembling the lining
After a marathon sewing session on Sunday, I managed to assemble most of the lining. This thing is pretty unwieldy! The front facings are supported with fusible hair canvas, which is pretty heavy compared to the floaty rayon lining. The entire assembly was flopping all over the place as I was working! But, it came out pretty nicely despite all the wrangling.
As usual, I added some flat piping between the lining and front facing. I see this detail on nice RTW jackets all the time and can’t help adding it to my own. 🙂 Here, I used the same black bias that I was using for the binding.
In drafting the lining pieces, I added two 1-inch pleats into the back lining for extra ease, especially across the upper back. I also sewed the entire lining with 3/8 inch seam allowances instead of the usual 5/8 inch. To ensure that the lining would match up with the other layers, I sewed a 5/8 inch SA for about an inch at the beginning and end of each seam. I’m not sure if this is the “proper” way to add ease into a lining, but it works.
I managed to assemble the two-piece sleeve linings before I gave up in exhaustion. Setting in the sleeves will have to wait until next weekend!
This coat is certainly a beast, but it’s meaty projects like these that remind me just how much I absolutely LOVE sewing. I’ve been taking my sweet ass time with every seam and enjoying watching the project come together bit by bit. While I enjoy a quick and easy project just as much as everyone else, sometimes it’s nice to really dive in and make something (hopefully) fantastic. Keep your fingers crossed for me. 🙂