This is the face of exasperation. Do you recognize it? It’s when you take a week off from work, spend the bulk of 7 full days working on a pattern, and don’t even get to the part where you get to play with nice fabric. I am tired of working on this muslin. I am DONE.
Noteworthy happenings from today:
- I firmly decided to stick with the Robson, after getting *this close* to pulling the trigger on this Burda trench. Morgan, you crafty temptress! You almost had me. If I’m making a mistake, I only have myself to blame!
- I pre-washed all my fabric. Everything went through 2 wash cycles on warm and into the dryer. No disasters to report, thankfully.
- I transferred all my muslin alterations back to the paper patterns. I hate that part.
- I re-drafted the front and back trench coat flaps, which proved to be rather unpleasant. Details below.
- I didn’t draft the lining pieces yet, but I’m brainstorming strategies. Will have to take into account the fact that the interlining and lining don’t stretch, but the fashion fabric does. What’s the solution – pleats?
Ok, flaps. FLAPS!! The back flap wasn’t too bad, but the front flap drove me insane. I need a cocktail. I need a cabin boy to bring me a cocktail. I need a cabin boy who will draft my flaps for me AND bring me a cocktail.
My basic strategy was to overlap the main coat pieces on the seam lines and extend the front flap as needed, all while maintaining the original proportion and shape of the flap as much as possible. Remember, I extended the shoulder seam and did a broad back adjustment (even on the front), which means the flap needs to cover that extra real estate. I wound up not only extending the flap, but also changing the angle of the bottom to accommodate the higher underarm seam. Since my upper chest width is about a size 16 and the underarm height is now a size 6, this threw the angle completely out of whack. The flap should slope gently downward from center front to the armscye. My altered flap is about horizontal. I wanted to avoid completely changing the slope to upward, so in that sense I succeeded.
There was much cursing involved here, but I think I ended up with something passable. Photo documentation of the alteration process:
Front coat piece on left, side piece on right, front flap in the middle.
The final flap is extended in the shoulder and armscye, and I cut off some of the bottom.
Now for the back flap. Same strategy of overlapping the relevant coat pieces and extending the flap to match:
Side coat piece on left, back piece on right, back flap on top right.
Thankfully I didn’t have to change the angle of the bottom, since by some miracle it roughly ended up in the right place. Thank the sewing gods!! All I did was extend it in the shoulder and armscye.
One perplexing issue: For both the front and back flaps, the flaps wind up covering parts of curved (convex) seams. How do you adjust a flat piece to accommodate this curve? I simply chose not to. In other words, the bit of fabric that gets taken away in the curved seam of the coat will remain present in the flap, thus causing the flap to protrude from the coat a bit. Finished Robsons seem to have this in various photos I’ve seen, and I noticed that the original coat is designed this way anyway (based on measuring the original pattern pieces). Plus, I figure the extra bit of wiggle room across the broadest part of my back isn’t a bad thing. Still, this just about broke my brain.
I’ll leave you with this photo of a particularly hacked area of the coat. So many lines! So much tape! So many hours sunk into this absolutely ridiculous project. All I can say is that if this coat doesn’t turn out to be the most fabulous thing I’ve ever made, the lovely floral fabric will be stained with my tears. Tears of agony.
Alteration exasperation. The struggle is real. I’m off to find that cabin boy now…