Another pair of pretty underthings to add to my collection! As sewing time and mental agility have both been low lately, I wanted a fun, quick project to make the best of a few free hours this weekend. After reading this bra-making post over at the Sewcialist blog while drinking my coffee this morning, I decided that something feminine and lacy was in order. And besides, it’s lingerie month! I still haven’t hopped on the bra-making bandwagon, but handmade undies hold a special place in my heart… err, lingerie drawer. This pair of So Zo undies is very similar to my previous pair, with a few minor tweaks to improve the fit and durability. In other words, I learned from my mistakes last time. 🙂
The materials are the same – black rayon/spandex knit (a dream to sew with!), 2-inch stretch lace for the waistband, and picot-edge elastic for the leg openings. I already talked about the modifications I made to the pattern to incorporate the different trims, so I won’t rehash them here. You know I like to crank out multiples of the same pattern, and undies are no different! If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. 🙂
I left the photo above a little dark so that you could see the pretty floral gusset. Do you recognize the fabric? It’s leftover Art Gallery jersey from this Renfrew that I made over the winter. I really love this print and think it adds a fun touch to these otherwise all-black undies. I have a hefty stack of brightly colored jersey scraps and want to make a whole collection of these!
Ok, now for the improvements. After wearing my previous pair a few times, I noticed a few popped stitches at the seam attaching the lace waistband, no doubt due to the fact that I used a stitch length that was way too long. Here’s what I did this time around, which seems to allow much more stretch across this seam:
- Baste the lace on top of the knit with a long straight stitch.
- Zig-zag along the bottom edge of the lace, roughly following the scallops.
- Run another line of zig-zagging slightly above this to reinforce the seam in case I get any more popped stitches.
- Remove the basting stitches.
For the zig-zag stitches, I used a length of 1.5-2.0 and a width of 3.0.
To attach the picot edge elastic, I used this Colette tutorial again, only this time following the recommendations for stitch length. I used the same settings as above for the zig-zag stitch that first attaches the elastic to the main fabric. Then, for the 3-step zig-zag topsitching, I used a length of 0.5 and a width of 4.5. This worked out much better than what I did last time, and the leg openings seem to have a good amount of stretch. Live and learn!
When joining the lace and main fabric at the side seam, I pressed the seam allowance of the main fabric to the back, and the SA of the lace to the front. This allows you to butt the seams right up against each other – a tip I picked up years ago from quilting. Note that each side seam was sewn separately, and I attached the lace as a closed loop to the rest of the undies.
Above you can see the SAs going in opposite directions, and also how every single seam is stitched at least twice. The last thing I want is an underwear malfunction in the middle of the day at work! Can you imagine?? Just thinking about it makes me want to reinforce those seams again. 🙂
This was such a quick, fun, and satisfying project. I’m so busy at work these days that simple projects are all I can handle right now, so it’s nice that I can whip up a quick pair of undies and immediately add them to the lingerie rotation. Even Maggie wanted to get in on the fun – can you spot her in the photo above? 🙂
I hope you’re all enjoying the weekend and hopefully squeezing in some sewing time!