My first Moss mini skirt is complete! I really like the simplicity of this pattern and the streamlined silhouette, not to mention the endless possibilities for customization and embellishment. As this was my first time sewing this pattern, there were a few hiccups along the way, but overall I’m pleased with the final product.
Pattern: Grainline Moss mini skirt, size 6. Despite my 2 muslins, the skirt came out a little too small. Next time I’ll go back up to a size 8.
Fabric: I used a total of 7 fabrics on this project! The lining was a complete stash-buster.
- Shell – Robert Kaufman Hampton Twill in “charm”
- Stripes – Kona cotton in 3 shades of pink/orange
- Lining – Bemberg rayon in “cerise” (leftover from another project)
- Waistband facing – pink Oxford shirting (leftovers)
- Pocket bags – coral Shot cotton (leftovers)
Modifications: Took out a 5/8 inch wedge from the center back to fix waistband gaping; added 1.5 inches in length to accommodate my height (I’m 5’8″).
Level of crafty satisfaction: Satisfied. This skirt isn’t perfect, but I think it’s good enough for my first attempt. 🙂
Check out my in-progress post for more photos of the interior and additional construction notes.
The skirt is a little wrinkly in the photos above because I wore it on Thanksgiving on Thursday, but thankfully I took some photos on the hanger beforehand. I sewed a double-row of topstitching in matching coral thread on most of the seams, and I quite like the result.
I drafted a full lining for the skirt to avoid the dreaded “skirt sticking to tights” syndrome. I really hate when my skirts ride up, and with a short skirt, riding up is a big problem! To draft the lining pieces, I overlaid the pattern pieces to avoid unnecessary seams, such as the yokes on the back and all the pocket pieces on the front. This was super easy to do – just draw the seam lines on your pattern pieces and match them up when overlapping multiple pieces. I love the finished look!
The tricky part was figuring out how to handle the lining in the fly area. I wound up making a rectangular cutout in the left front lining piece and slipstitching the edges down along the fly facing (on the left) and fly shield (along the bottom and right).
It came out fairly well, except for where I over-shot the width of the cutout in the bottom left corner. Oops! Since the only fabric underneath the lining in that area is the actual garment front, I didn’t want to stitch it down to avoid stitches showing on the outside of the skirt. As a result, the jagged corner just hangs loose.
It’s actually not too bad, all things considered. There’s no strain on that area since the zipper stop is about an inch above it, and I think the rest of the area came out nicely.
Have any of you done this before, and is there a better way to handle the lining here?
I really like the clean look from the outside, and the slippery lining does a fantastic job of gliding over my tights. A sewing win in my book! 🙂
For the hem, I added a few stripes in hues of pink and orange to give the skirt a little more interest. To construct the band, I fused a lightweight interfacing to long strips of fabric: 1.25 inches wide and slightly longer than the circumference of the hem. I sewed the strips together with 1/4 inch seam allowances, so the final width of each stripe is 3/4 inch. I hemmed the skirt as usual, and then I topstitched the entire band on top, folding the top and bottom edges underneath and catching them in the topstitching. Finally, I topstitched along the top and bottom of each stripe, just for extra security.
I slipstitched the lining 1/2 inch above the skirt hem by hand. This is my standard method for lining skirts and dresses, and I’m always pleased with the results. Sometimes I’ll add a 1/2 inch “dropped fold-over” to give the lining a little wiggle room (like you would do on a jacket lining), but I didn’t think it was necessary here.
Check out the pocket lining – I love how well it matches! The lining fabric is much more lightweight than the twill, which reduces bulk around the pockets (and hips).
All right, now for some complaints. I mentioned last time that I had a few gripes with the instructions for inserting the fly, which was particularly annoying because I guess I have high expectations for indie patterns and am a big fan of Jen and her work. This was my first time inserting a fly, and I was really relying on the instructions to guide me through it. I figured it out in the end, but I was disappointed with the instructions overall.
Gripe #1: In Step 9, the illustration shows the right edge of the zipper aligned with the understitching of the fly facing. When I did this, however, I had **barely** enough zipper tape to sew the zipper to the right front of the skirt. To Jen’s credit, the written instructions say to align the zipper with the edge of the fly facing, but the illustration doesn’t agree with the instructions, which was confusing.
Since I had barely any zipper tape to work with (maybe 1 mm?), I sewed a narrow zig-zag with a short stitch length to secure the zipper to the right front. Can you see my tiny zig-zag below? It was a nail-biter! The zipper teeth are just too far away from the right front skirt piece.
Next time I’ll line up the zipper tape along the edge of the fly facing (not the understitching), or even hanging over the edge by a few millimeters.
Gripe #2: My first complaint was relatively minor, but this is a major error. In Step 12, the illustration shows the fly shield facing the wrong way! The wording is correct: align the folded edge of the fly shield with the topstitching of the fly facing (i.e., the left side of the illustration). However, the folded edge of the fly shield is on the right in the illustration, with the seamed edge on the left. This would result in a completely backwards fly shield. Thankfully I caught the error and didn’t just sew blindly!
To be perfectly honest, I find this type of glaring error to be completely unacceptable, regardless of whether the pattern is produced by an indie designer or a huge corporation. Simple proofreading should catch things like this. I was particularly surprised that the error was still in the instructions a year after the initial pattern was released (I just bought the PDF in September).
All right, rant over.
I’m pretty happy with this skirt overall, and I’m excited to add it to my winter wardrobe rotation! I love being able to wear short skirts in the winter (with opaque tights), as I wouldn’t feel comfortable with this hemline with bare legs. Here’s a shot with an (un-ironed) Archer, to give you an idea of how I’ll wear it to work:
I love this look! I’m currently halfway through a denim version, and I just picked up some really colorful canvas for a 3rd. You know I like to crank out multiples. 🙂