Coral Moss mini: in progress

Coral Moss mini in progress - fly zipper with lining

Finally, progress on my first Moss mini skirt!  This project has been in the works for a while, since September actually.  I always find that there’s a decent amount of prep work to be done when trying out a new pattern.  For the Moss, I wound up tracing the entire pattern twice (!) and making two muslins, including unpicking the first muslin to re-use the fabric for the second.  Oh, the joys of fitting and pattern adjustments.  🙂  After going down from a size 8 to a 6 and taking a 5/8″ wedge out of the center back waistline, I was finally ready to cut into my fabric this weekend.

I’m using Robert Kaufman Hampton Twill in “charm,” a warm coral color.  The twill is a light- to medium-weight cotton and seems to be behaving well so far.  I drafted a full lining in hot pink Bemberg rayon, which I had leftover from my navy Beignet.  The lining is actually a total stash-buster!  I used pink Oxford shirting for the waistband facing (leftover from my Flamingo Archer) and coral shot cotton for the pocket bags (leftover from my Spring Archer).  Hooray for using scraps!

Coral Moss mini in progress - topstitching detail

I’m trying to do a double-row of topstitching wherever it makes sense, using a RTW denim mini skirt as a reference.  I’m using regular thread in a matching color, and I think the detail adds just enough interest without being overwhelming.  I debated using a contrast topstitching thread but decided to embellish the skirt in a different way, which I’ll show you below.  Typical of my extremely stubborn self, I’m eyeballing all the topstitching instead of using a specialty foot.  I know, I’m ridiculous that way.  🙂

Coral Moss mini in progress - inside out

Check out these innards!  I love all the various shades of pink incorporated into the skirt.  I’m using my Bernina for all the construction seams and finishing the raw edges with the serger.  I didn’t worry about the serger thread color here, since it won’t show at all on the outside of the garment.

Coral Moss mini in progress - inside of fly with lining still unattached

I still haven’t quite figured out how to handle the lining in the fly area.  I debated handling the two layers (shell and lining) as one during the fly insertion process, but I ultimately decided against it.  This is only my 2nd fly zipper, and I didn’t want to risk messing it up by introducing the slippery rayon into the mix!  For now the lining is hanging loose until I figure out an elegant way of slipstitching it in place.

Speaking of inserting the fly, I have a few gripes with the instructions that I’ll share in a later post.  You know I’m not afraid to give critical reviews of indie patterns when they’re justified!  The rest of the pattern came together just fine though.

Coral Moss mini in progress - potential embellishment fabricsSince I usually like to add a little personalization to my sewing projects, I picked up these 3 contrasting cottons in various shades of pink and orange.  I’m envisioning stripes along the hem of the skirt, similar to what I did with my puffy cream-colored skirt.  But how can I pull this off neatly?  Bias tape?  A thin tube of fabric?  Ideas welcome.

I’m having a lot of fun with this project and love the bright colors.  There’s still some head-scratching to do regarding the lining treatment in the fly area and how to make the stripes, but overall I’m pleased with my progress thus far.

Hope you all had a great weekend!  Have you made a Moss?

15 thoughts on “Coral Moss mini: in progress

  1. I’ve been dreaming of another moss skirt… this looks so bright and cheerful! I know lots of people rave about the fly instructions, but it hasn’t worked for me either! There just isn’t enough SA, in my opinion, so I always add a little extra on the underlap side. For the stripes, I think bias tape is the way to go. Can’t wait to see the finished skirt!


    • I’m so glad I’m not the only one who wasn’t thrilled with the fly instructions! I agree, the 1/4 inch SA on the underlap is hard to work with, and I also think there are some errors in the instructions, or at least points that could be made clearer. Not a big deal because I figured it out, but I guess I have high expectations of indie patterns!


  2. Great skirt. I’m liking the different hues of pink going on there. I’m stumped by how to sew a lining with a fly front. I’m looking forward to seeing what you do. I imagine some hand stitching might be in your future.
    As for the hem stripes, if you have a bias tape maker you could do bias tape or tape on the straight grain. If you don’t have a bias tape maker there is a printable one from the Scientific Seamstress here:
    Can’t wait to see which Archer/Renfrew combo you choose to go with this skirt 🙂


    • Wow, that printable bias tape maker looks amazing! Thanks for the tip. 🙂 I’ll definitely be hand stitching that lining in place, but I’ll need to figure out how to make it sit nicely around the curved area of the fly. Hmmmm. I hope this skirt will go with all my Archers, except maybe the burgundy one. We’ll see!

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  3. I love all the neatly finished insides! What about a contrast band at the hem of the skirt – it will depend if the fabric is the same weight but i think it is a cute look, otherwise probably bias strips or ribbon for a contrast band? I love the colour – I am still no nearer making another Moss, I am making a Named Patterns Nascha (considerably lengethened!) which is turning out more complicated than I expected!



    • Thanks for the suggestions! I’m still debating a contrast band at the hem. I don’t want to add too much length to the skirt (otherwise I’ll need a kick pleat), but I think a narrow band would work. Lots to consider! The Nascha looks awesome, and I haven’t seen any finished makes popping up on blogs. I’ll be very curious to see how yours come out! I love the cut-out detail on the front.


  4. I love the color of the skirt– actually, all the colors! It’s so fun to put scraps to use in the inside of a garment. I think the bias tape is the way to go for the stripes. I’m looking forward to seeing the finished product!


    • Thanks Teri! All the shades of pink and orange are right up my alley, and yes, I was so pleased that the lining was sewn completely from my leftovers pile! I knew there was a reason I was saving all those bits and pieces. 🙂


  5. Love this skirt! I just read your bio on Seamstress Erin’s blog . . . I aspire to be a more patient sewist like you; perhaps if I took my time I’d do less frog stitching (Rip-it, rip-it!) LOL.


    • Haha, thanks Cathryn! Sewing slowly does have its advantages in terms of details and finishing techniques, but it means that I can only crank out 1-2 garments per month. Oh well! 🙂


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