Spring Archer in progress: two-layer pocket and fancy sleeve plackets

Spring Archer in progress - until next time

I’ve got another Grainline Archer on my sewing table, this time in cheery spring colors.  Just looking at these fabrics makes me happy!  Although it’s far from spring here in Boston, my mind has undoubtedly shifted toward warm-weather sewing.  I’ve been enjoying wearing my first Archer so much that I figured another one was in order, especially after all those alterations I had made the first time around.  Now I can just crank out the second one with no worries about fit.  And hello, did I mention the spring color palette?  Yay!  : )

Spring Archer in progress - fabric

The main fabric is some dreamy shot cotton from Gather Here in a delightful peach/coral color, and the dot is a really nice quality quilting cotton.  I picked up 2.5 yards of the main fabric (44 inches wide) and 1/3 yard of the dot, and I managed to cut out all the pieces comfortably with just a little leftover.

Spring Archer in progress - cut out pieces

Look at all those pieces cut out and ready to go, basking in the weekend sun.  Man I love weekend sewing.  : )  I picked out a medium-weight fusible interfacing (Pellon Sof-Shape) that worked well on my previous Archer, so hopefully it’ll do the trick again this time.

Spring Archer in progress - double-layer pocket piece cut

I deviated a bit from the pattern for the pocket on this shirt, mostly because this dot fabric was a little too transparent for my liking when laid against the peach fabric.  I decided to create a two-layer pocket, essentially just folding the whole thing in half and topstitching it down.

You can see in the photo above that I folded up the 1/4 inch seam allowances on the right side, and I cut away the seam allowances on the left side.  When folded in half, the left side sits inside the right, thereby reducing bulk in the seam allowances.

Spring Archer in progress - double-layer pocket piece folded

See?  A nice, snug fit!  It was a breeze to topstitch with only one seam allowance around the edge instead of two.  I would definitely recommend re-drafting your pocket like this if you want to beef up a transparent fabric.

Spring Archer in progress - finished double-layer pocket

Not bad at all, and as an added bonus, the two-layer pocket will provide some extra bra coverage since the main fabric is a little transparent too.  But what to do about the other side with no pocket??  A tank top might be required after all.  : )

Now, onto the sleeve plackets:

Spring Archer in progress - sleeve placket pieces

Guys.  I took Andrea’s advice and used Pam’s seriously fabulous two-piece professional sleeve placket tutorial, and WOW was it f-ing awesome!!  Seriously.  Go on over there and check out her method right now before you forget.  I’m not sure if there’s such a thing as a sewgasm, but if there is, I definitely had one after I put in this placket!

I cut out the two pieces pretty much exactly to Pam’s measurements, and it worked like magic.  MAGIC, people!  I was amazed.

Spring Archer in progress - finished sleeve placket front

Check out this beautiful placket!!  I mean, look at it!  No joke, I was screaming and dancing all over my apartment after putting this in.  All the seams are fully enclosed inside and out, and all the little bits and bobs somehow magically get tucked in and stitched down, never to be seen again.  It pretty much blew my mind.

Spring Archer in progress - finished sleeve placket back

See the back?  No raw edges here – just a f-ing beautiful sleeve placket.  You know, I try really hard not to curse on this blog, but sometimes it is really justified.  So sue me.  : )

Spring Archer in progress - uneven sleeve plackets

Now you just *knew* I was going to make a stupid mistake among all my sleeve placket rejoicing, right?  Of course I was.  Apparently I can’t do 4th grade math because I cut my second placket 1/2 inch shorter than my first one.  Hahahahaha.  Do you think I’m going to rip this out and fix it??  Yeah right!  I can 100% guarantee that no one is going to come up to me on the street and tell me how uneven my sleeve plackets are.  Let’s just call it a design feature and move on.  : )

Spring Archer in progress - back darts and French seams

This evening after work I made a few more little bits of progress: setting in the sleeves, sewing the back waist darts, and French seaming the side and sleeve seams.  I have to say, I’ve been sewing this shirt at a glacial pace and really enjoying every single stitch.  I’m a slow sewer to begin with, but I’m taking this project extra slow, just because.  I think the lovely Kat is really on to something here.

Spring Archer in progress - my happy sewing placeI’ll leave you with a picture of my happy sewing place, featuring my Spring Archer in progress and some delicious afternoon coffee.  (The Virginia state mug – and the coffee inside it – were gifts from my best friend who lives there.  Thanks Laura!)

Stay tuned for a finished shirt… before the next ice age perhaps.  : )

4 thoughts on “Spring Archer in progress: two-layer pocket and fancy sleeve plackets

    • Pam, I can’t thank you enough for your wonderfully detailed and well-written tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to stop by and comment – I feel like a rockstar just visited my blog. : ) (And thanks for ignoring my huge mistake, ha!)


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