First blazer muslin: not horrible, not great

First blazer muslin - front

I *just* finished putting together the first muslin of my blazer, and I’m not quite sure what to say about it.  I’m looking at the pictures, I’m pondering, I’m scratching my head.  It’s not horrible, but it’s definitely not good either.  I guess this is why you make muslins in the first place, huh?

A few things that I noticed right away, in the 15 minutes or so that I stared at myself in the mirror:

  • My blazer does not look like the pattern photo.  Shocking.  : )

Simplicity 2446 pattern art close up

  • I made the shoulders too wide, but the upper back still feels too tight.  Maybe my shoulders are a normal width, but my broad back starts below them?  WTF?
  • The jacket is too wide in the bust and way too wide in the waist, but not wide enough in the hips.
  • The overall jacket length is too short.  I cut the shorter version, but maybe I want the longer version (pictured above) after all?
  • I like the added length in the sleeves.  One good thing!

First blazer muslin - left side

From the side: super boxy.  I’d like some waist definition in the front and back.

First blazer muslin - back

From the back: I look like a football player!  All I see in this picture are my huge shoulders.  You can also see all the excess fabric in the back waist area.

First blazer muslin - right sideSurprisingly, this side view looks pretty good.  Somehow I managed to get some shaping in the waist that I didn’t get in the other side photo.  Maybe I was pressing the fabric toward my body?  At least this gives me an image to work toward, even if the shaping I’m seeing is not really there.

Hmmmmmm.  Clearly this will require a lot more thought and some serious fitting.  I’ll have to sleep on it and look at it with fresh eyes another day — right now it’s almost midnight, and I’m exhausted!

What do you think?  Any advice on how to turn this into a great-looking blazer?

8 thoughts on “First blazer muslin: not horrible, not great

  1. I say to stay with the shorter length, and the hip width looks fine. If you keep it shorter in the length, you will only need a slight bit more bust/back waist shaping. The sleeves look great.

  2. Hiya Carolyn! First of all, cudos for making a blazer, I’m looking forward to seeing the final result. Fitting advice is so hard to give over the internet without being able to see the garment in real life, but here goes what I think! I noticed you said that the shoulders, bust and waist were all too big. Fitting shoulders and bust is hard, but adding width to the waist/hips is much easier fitting wise…no pesky arm holes to adjust and such. I’m not sure what size you selected, but perhaps you should consider a size down? That way, the upper body would fit, and you can easily adjust the waist and hips (especially if you’d prefer a longer jacket). I always choose a size for an upper body garment (jacket, coat, top etc…) based on my bust measurement and pretty much disregard the rest, since waist/hip are easy to adjust. Also, you may want to consider having the seam allowances to the inside on a muslin. It is easier to pinch out and fit with them to the outside, but they can become visually distracting and hide fitting issues. It also really helps to mark with permanent marker on the muslin the straight grain and crosswise grain, so you know when you disturb the grain in your fitting. Anywho, like I said, hard to give advice over the net, but hope it helps a bit! Soldier on! It’ll look great! BTW, I have this fitting book and it’s so great http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Photo-Guide-Perfect-Fitting/dp/1589236084. Lots of piccies! All the best 🙂

    • Kat, thanks for such great and detailed advice! I really appreciate the help. : ) I did wind up moving the seam allowances to the inside, since they were indeed very distracting. I was too lazy to mark the grain lines on my next muslin, but I did try to check that the seams were hanging straight down. I think fitting a blazer is turning out to be quite a challenge considering I don’t have a dress form or a second pair of hands, ugh!

      • Hi Carolyn! Yes, yes and yes! I finally broke down and made a duct tape dress form because I found fitting myself (especially a blazer!) very very difficult and pretty much near impossible. I think sometimes fitting must come to a point when it’s “good enough”. 🙂

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