My second blazer muslin is complete! Well, it’s close enough anyway. I’m getting to the point where I’m sick of tweaking it, and I’m not sure how much better it’s going to get without a dress form or a second pair of hands to help. Fitting a tailored blazer on yourself is quite the challenge, apparently!
Despite all the awkward reaching around to my back, endless sewing and seam ripping, and lots of calming deep breaths, I think the final result is actually not too bad. It fits much better than the first muslin, and it’s more comfortable to move around in too. Success? Well… close enough. : )
A few of the major adjustments that I made after the first muslin:
- Cut the longer length. I think the extra length in the hips balances out my shoulders a bit.
- Removed the extra width I had added in the shoulders. That was total overkill!
- (Kept the extra length I had added in the bust and waist.)
- Took in the princess seams in the lower back to define my waist.
- Let out the princess seams in the upper back to make room for my shoulders. This was a huge improvement in the overall comfort of the blazer – gave me room to move my arms forward without too much strain.
- Took in the princess seams in the bust area, essentially grading the pattern down from a B cup to an A cup.
The pattern says to determine which cup size to cut by taking the difference between your bust and high bust measurements. Since I have a wide upper back and a small bust, my bust and high bust measurements are exactly the same. So what does that mean? According to the pattern, it means I have no boobs whatsoever. : ) Since I’m pretty sure that’s not the case, I cut a B cup since I usually wear a padded bra, but the extra room wound up being too much. So, I graded back down.
There’s nothing quite like a pattern telling you that you’re flat chested… ouch!
I made a few other minor tweaks, including shortening the shoulder seam by about 1/4 inch and letting out the front armhole seam by about 1/4 inch. The armhole adjustment allowed me to move around in the blazer a bit more comfortably, reducing strain when I move my arms forward.
The back of the blazer gave me such a headache. I couldn’t get it to fit properly AND lay flat at the same time. I opted for fit, and the result is what you see above: a lot of wrinkles! I’m making the executive decision not to care about this, since the fit is indeed quite comfortable in the upper back, and I like the look of the waist shaping in the lower back. Screw you, blazer! You will bend to my will. [Insert evil laugh...]
So what do you think? At least please tell me it looks better than the first muslin. : )
Confession: I think a fitted blazer is a little out of my league right now. There, I said it. I’ll still learn a lot from the process of fitting and constructing the garment, but a perfect fit? I might be a few years (and a dress form) away from that. It’s ok, I’ll get there. It’s all about enjoying the process, right?
P.S. – You may have noticed the two-week lag between the first and second muslins. Let’s just say that grad student life is kicking my butt right now. Not cool!
Next up: transferring my adjusted seam lines to the paper pattern pieces. Can I please get a sewing monkey to do that for me? After that: fabric shopping. Now that’s what I’m talking about!